Location: Northwest Cambodia, 20km East of the Thai border
Banteay Chhmar is perhaps Cambodia’s best kept secret and very far from the beaten
track, located near the Thai border. Unlike other Angkor temples, Banteay Chhmar has
never been restored and has succumbed to overgrowth, severe looting and natural
deterioration over the years. It is now one of Cambodia’s top listed sites for nomination
to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. Experts believe that Banteay Chhmar (The Citadel of the
Cats) rivalled Angkor Wat in scale and architectural brilliance. It has been estimated that it
took about 20,000 labourers and about 30 years to build it.
Banteay Chhmar is the fourth largest temple from the Angkor period and comprises
of 9 satellite temples in its complex. It was commissioned in the late 12 th to early 13th
centuries by King Jayavarman VII. A Khmer inscription found at the site (now on display at
the National Museum, Phnom Penh) tells how Prince Indravarman (believed to be the son
of the King) was protected on two occasions by four royal servants, who sacrificed their
lives in battle. Their names can also be found on the inscription.
The temple is one of only two sites outside Bayon with the enigmatic face towers. The
highlight is the bas reliefs, which are comparable with the Bayon and depict military and
domestic scenes. The temples central complex is a jumble of towers, galleries, vegetation
and fallen stones.
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